Mangiate bene!

Certainly a four hour train ride should give me ample to time to write a blog. I got on the wrong train, on purpose too, as mine was late- so I thought this one would get me to Florence faster. Totally got what I deserve, as the one I am on will get me there 1.5 to 2 hours slower. FUN!

Despite having an entire row of 3 mid section seats all to myself, I was still unable to sleep on the flight from NYC to Rome. As much as I would like to blame it on the excitement, I think it was just too dang loud! Having lost my Bose noise reduction headset (seriously, my brother Jared SPOILs me!), along with iTouch, memory cards, and oh…my passport @ JFK, my sensitive ears just couldn’t take it. Although my body was not in knots, my eyes had sunk down to my chin upon arrival to the land of golden food opportunities, and I was desperate for sleep. From the airport, I promptly hired a room that was to be ready within the hour (8am) next to the Termini train station in Rome, and 2 hours later- I was there, being told the room would be cleaned in 30 minutes. I went up to the room, hoping just to wait for the cleaning service to clear away the cigarette ash from the floor and desk, and give me new sheets, all the while bumping into each wall as I struggled to get out of my trekking size backpack.

For the next 3 hours, I jerked and turned carefully on my self supplied “clean” bed , in the non-sleep of the waking dead as doors all around me opened and closed with a slam, hurried feet took to stairs, and the polizia whistles directed traffic outside my window. At 2pm, a clerk arrived to clean the room, I compromised and took clean sheets, a towel, and an empty garbage bin, plugged my ears with foam and slept decently for the next 3 hours, though noting with resign that the sun had come out and the afternoon looked warm and inviting, compared to my cold cell of a room.

I finally dragged myself out of bed at 5 to discover Roma, brushed the grit from my teeth, and slammed the door behind me as my feet pounded the stairs to the door. After wondering around, and inquiring at a few hotels for a possible upgrade, I came upon a internet café and was able to check my email for any news from Matteo, a fellow burner and couch surfer Italiano de Roma. There he was in black and white telling me to meet him and some friends at a bar off such and such street after work, and I could then return with him via a car to sleep upon his couch. Now, suffice to say, it was great to finally get an email from him although it seemed to me that some details were missing, like…..the name of the bar….the time that was considered “after work”, and perhaps some sort of description of Matteo. He did give me his number, and after waiting for 30 minutes at the fountain facing the 2 “bars”- one restaurant, the other said bar and gelato- I finally went to the one with the world bar in it and waited for another hour until I ‘asked’ the owner with lots of gesturing if he could call the number for Matteo. He did, Matteo answered, “Pronto” and I told him I was here, and he said he’d come out to the fountain. I rushed to the fountain at about the same time a tall skinny version of Mario de Nintendo (minus the overalls, plus a fro of curly black hair- keep fat bushy mustache) walks past me circling the fountain, stops and scratches his head in confusion. I approached him, “Matteo?”, and he jumps back a little before giving me two welcoming Italino kisses on either cheek and says, “Kory. I thought you were a man!“ I’d forgotten how my name can cause confusion, even with the gender hinting, “k”.

What proceeded was a foodie’s Italian dream. We went into the restaurant, aka ‘bar’ to meet his friends and help them finish off their 2nd bottle of white vino, scooted (okay Giovanni did, we car-ed it) over to Giovanni and the expecting Annachiara’s for dinner (their daughter is due on my birthday!) .

Holy Wow! Annachiara had already started dinner by the time we arrived. Vino rosso was poured as delicious smells were pouring out of the kitchen. I stupidly forgot to take pictures of people that evening, and I only caught two of the four courses we had on film.
*Fresh mozzarella and sun dried tomatos (Giovanni was excited for me to try this…he lived in L.A. for two years, and says not even Whole Foods can get this). The mozzarella was so amazing. It has a skin- that is a little thicker than any I‘ve consumed previous, and the inside is so chewy and salty and flavorful! In the states, I’ve never had a wet fresh mozzarella with so much flavor! It is usually the dry ones that have a distinctive flavor to them, and this had both the doughy chewy lightness with a clear aroma and flavor.
*Ricotta herb torta (individual sized soufflés), with sun dried tomatos on the side. I inhaled this so quickly not one word of praise could escape my lips until I had finished it. Think of the best lasagna you’ve ever had, take away the noodles, and put the tomatos on the side, yet only after they’d been sun dried. One fork of steamy cheesy herded heaven that just melts away (no chewing required), closely followed by cooling chewy sweet tomata. Bellisimo!
*Pasta (like spaghetti but not and I forgot the name so don’t ask me) with thick chunks of bacon ( from the pig’s cheek- from Annachiara’s parent’s farm) covered in Asiago cheese. Giovanni then pounded fresh pepper corns (from the family farm) with mortar and pestle and artfully sprinkled my serving. Nothing else added, no oil, or cream or anything! It was divine. It was creamy oily heavenly and melted in my mouth, and kissed my lips so I had to keep licking them and rubbing them together between smiles. Giovanni opened another vino rossa, this one grown only 1000 meters from the first. Mama Mia!
* Prosciutto wrapped in pounded chicken, served with wild greens
Um, yum. These were bit sized portions, and I watched Annachiara pound the chicken flat with just one or two expertly place wacks, wrap up the prosciutto, and then throw it in a pan to sauté to a golden brown perfection. The greens, again from the family farm, were like Sorel yet more bitter and not as tough.
* Ricotta Torta for dessert. Smooth and sweet ricotta in a pie crust, with a hint nutmeg. Italiano cheesecake. Had to have two!

What an amazing Italian awakening to an exhausting day!

Ciao Roma! I have eaten well. Ho Mangiato Bene!

The next night, Matteo’s roommate Alberto made pasta vegetable soup with bacon, and baked eggplant, tomatas, and Parmigiano. Everyday I have tried I new baked good- pine nut cookie, rice pudding cake, and gelato-pistachio, cappuccino. And of course everyday had a cappuccino, pizza, or vino in it!

I am looking forward to Florence, and a nice sit down restaurant.